Day 15 - May 22nd: Off Piste
Valverde de la Virgen to Reliegos 20 miles / 362 total
Yesterday’s 30 km wasn’t hard on the legs, but the emotional swings around my shin and the back-and-forth wore me out. Christina and I made it back to the auberge, Domus Oncinae, by 7:30 PM—just in time for the 8:30 dinner. When I first arrived at 2:30 PM, I met Juan, the proprietor, and asked about when dinner is served and I told him I might be asleep by then. He laughed, “You’re in Spain. That’s early for us!”
Juan seems to own most of the buildings in this tiny village of Valverde de la Virgen. From the outside, the auberge looked plain, but inside it opened into a beautiful courtyard with a fountain, tiled floors, and glassed-in seating areas. A trattoria was attached. They grow their own vegetables, maintain vines, and serve solid wines that they sell commercially.
Dinner was exceptional. I had burrata with tomato, arugula, and pesto to start, followed by pork ribs and cheesecake. Christina chose shrimp croquettes and tuna but skipped dessert. We paired it all with Juan’s Cepas Leonesas, a tinto made from Prieto Picudo grapes. Intense aroma, red fruits like blackberry and blueberry, sweet entry, good structure, and a persistent finish. We both loved it.
Juan dreams of finding a distributor in the United States
I’m all-in on auberges now. Unique lodging, strong character, solid food. Rooms are simple, meals are either home-cooked or professionally done, and the price is right: lodging and dinner around €40–€50.
At 5 AM, like clockwork, one bird started the symphony that grew into a full sunrise chorus. Crisp morning in the mid-40s. After breakfast and goodbyes to Raul, Jax and I set off. I decided to skip the traditional Camino path, which curves north and east for 35 km. Instead, we took a diagonal shortcut to Reliegos via Google Maps: 32 km and a change of pace.
This approach brought back memories of my U.S. run in 2021. I often went point-to-point, choosing routes based on logistics or curiosity. It usually worked and when it didn’t, there was a hell of a memory!
We started out on walking paths through small villages for about 10 km. Then Google Maps had me turn off onto a dirt road—just like the Camino. A kilometer later, it ended. On my left, a farm. Three large, territorial dogs charged toward us. Google showed the path continuing through a field. I stood my ground, faced the dogs, and kept calm while shielding a skittish Jax. Eventually, we moved on through wildflower fields until Google pointed left again—toward some ruts in overgrowth. I followed.
Another right turn and now we’re walking along and sometimes on a high-speed rail line. Jax was off-leash and loving it, but I was on edge, picturing a train roaring through at 150 mph. One more kilometer and we passed under a bridge—then, thankfully, a quiet country road appeared to our left.
We rolled into Villa de Soto, where I spotted a quiet bar called Casa Jeremias. Unlike the busy Camino cafes, its outdoor tables were empty. After miles off-trail, I took the opportunity. Inside, it was packed—standing room only. Locals, retirees, workers on break. After being served over, a gentlemen motioned for the woman behind the bar to let me go. “Gracias!” I shouted. I finally ordered a café con leche and enjoyed it out in the sun with Jax.
The Camino is affordable, but it’ll nickel-and-dime you. Hostels cost €20–€30, menus del día are €10–€15, but a coffee is €2–€3, and pastries can be €4–€5. Today’s off-Camino stop: café con leche for €1. Nice break from the norm.
Back on the country roads, Google led us left again—into another field. This one was an overgrown path squeezed between the high-speed rail and a concrete irrigation channel. Endless crops stretched beyond. For 10 glorious km, Jax was off-leash, romping freely. It felt like Nebraska again.
At the path’s end, the canal split into a grid feeding nearby fields. To our right: grain silos and a train yard. I got PTSD to Sedan, Nebraska, where Google led me through fields to a mining facility that looked like Tatooine from Star Wars. There, I knocked on a trailer for directions and walked straight into a Breaking Bad-style meth lab before running for my life.
No meth lab today. Just remote terrain and a close call when Jax disappeared in the distance coming awfully close to hitting a sheep herd before I yelled “come!!!!” for him. Thankfully he obeyed.
As we entered Reliegos, I reunited with the familar seashell and arrow sings signifying my return to the Camino. And, not a single pilgrim seen all day.
Back at the room, Jax got a long-overdue bath. Between trail grime and the fields. Current tally is 22 ticks removed.
Another day in the books.
Thanks for the support.
Cheers,
David
