Day 18 - May 25th: Matilda

Carrión de los Condes to Itero de la Vega: 21.55 miles / 427 total

Christina is perfecting the most important logistical issue we face each day: lodging. When I ran across the United States in 2021, I bought an RV because there were no guaranteed places to stop—especially across wide-open states like Wyoming, Nevada, Nebraska, and Utah. And, we had Lucky Caminho with us. In Europe, I had envisioned rolling into villages every 5–10 km with plenty of options that pilgrims have used for centuries, eliminating the need for a mobile home on wheels. The premise is sound, but the reality is more complicated: limited supply, high seasonal demand, and traveling with a dog doesn’t make it easier.

We've learned that while Booking.com and Google can show options, they aren’t reliable for availability, pet-friendliness, or bed type. So Christina now heads to our target towns early, in person, and speaks with proprietors directly. We've discovered that a good story and 10 euros can override a "no pets" policy, and cancellations happen often, as pilgrim schedules shift. Our last three nights have been seamless—into town, check into the auberge, and back out the next morning. No wasted time.

Christina secured the last room in Carrión de los Condes when she got a cancellation call. It was a third-floor walk-up loft with four beds, and we were thrilled. Hostal Santiago was clean but didn’t offer food service, so we grabbed an Estrella draft on the quaint plaza and found the only restaurant open at 7 p.m. serving a menú del día. I had hearty white bean soup with garlic and mushrooms, braised pork shoulder with fries and salad, and a custard tart with local wine—all for €15. Incredible.

Jax was thrilled when we returned with the leftovers we couldn’t finish. It looked like a trash can of lettuce, tomatoes, pork shoulder bone, beef stew, and mushrooms—and he inhaled it all, along with three bowls of his puppy food.

Next up on our to-do list: figure out how to deal with all the hitchhikers Jax is collecting. We remove 25+ ticks daily—and that’s just what we see. I brought Frontline from the U.S., supposedly top-tier, but it doesn’t seem to do much. Christina will look for a vet to see if there’s something better available here.

I get asked often what I do with all the time on the trail. Answer: I listen to a lot of podcasts and audiobooks. Sometimes music. Today, I listened to an interview with my good friend Bob Becker and was touched to hear details of his life I hadn’t known. If you're curious what an 80-year-old is capable of—like taking on the Badwater 135 ultramarathon this July—check it out: Bob Becker Interview. P.S. our crew of runners, a.k.a. The Ultra Gang, has done several big runs together. Bob’s handle is “The Immortal.”

I love the mornings on trail—the light highlights the green flora and wildflower colors of purple, yellow, red, pink, and white that blanket the Camino’s edge. The temperatures are cool, and the mood is high. Everyone seems to carry new-day, new-possibility energy.

Today, the trail out of Carrión hugged the left side of the road with fields stretching in both directions. To the north, I’ve been traveling parallel to the majestic Cantabrian Mountains. There were a ton of pilgrims out today.

Early in the day, just a few kilometers out, I met Matilda, walking carefully but with great spirit. I was shocked to learn she’s only 18 and doing a solo Camino. What an ambitious young woman.

Unlike yesterday’s shaded path, today was exposed. With rising temps, hydration and electrolytes were critical. Toward the end, Jax sought out every river, stream, or even puddle to cool off. In absence of those, he would jump into the foliage on the side of the path.

We crossed a bridge, the Puente de Itero, where we left Palencia and entered Burgos. The bridge was commissioned by King Alfonso VI in the 11th century to help pilgrims cross the Pisuerga River. Just beyond it, on the left, we passed a restored 12th-century hermitage that once served as a hospital. Today, it’s a donation-only albergue for pilgrims—with no electricity. Thankfully, this section of the trail provided shade.

My go-to trail breakfast is a big one: eggs, bread, croissants, café con leche, donuts, OJ—whatever I can get down in 15 minutes. That usually holds me most of the day. But when breakfast isn’t offered, like today, it’s Plan B: quick coffee and pastry in town, cashews on trail, and whatever else I can find every 10 km. Today that was a bacon, egg, and cheese on baguette with OJ and coffee at 10 km, then another coffee and chocolate croissant at 25 km. Add in plenty of water. Perfect nutrition.

Christina secured a hostel in Itero de la Vega, perfectly placed. Since we’re with Jax, we took a room with four beds for ourselves. Christina smelled the mattresses and blankets and told me which ones we take. There’s nothing in town, so we’ll dine with the pilgrims at 7 p.m. In the meantime, there’s an Estrella Galicia tap on-site—and I’ll hydrate there while working on this blog.

Thanks for the support.
Cheers,
David