Day 23 - May 30th: Friends

Logroño to Ayegui: 30.03 miles / total 564

The Holiday Inn Express brand has always represented, at least to me, a strong medium-tier value accommodation. On the Camino, that gets bumped up to luxury status: space in the room, a doggy package with treats and bowls, a strong shower, good bedding with two pillows, and an awesome breakfast.

Our other pleasant surprise was that this was the exact same place Amy, Christina, and I stayed in 2022 when we ran the Camino—and we remembered the tasty Thai restaurant across the street. It turned out we were some of its first customers; a Thai couple had just opened it after COVID. We showed him a picture of the three of us and he seemed to remember Amy—the blond Wonder Woman! Christina and I engorged ourselves on spring rolls, pad thai, soup, and shrimp with white rice. I was so stuffed, it was the first time this trip I passed on dessert. Jax had a bowlful of leftovers to boot.

After losing about 10 pounds over 22 days, I hit the point where I just can’t eat the way my mind or routine wants anymore. Last week, I easily enjoyed two or three small drafts after finishing my run. But last night, I could barely have one before my body shut it down. I learned running across America that listening to the body is key to long-term success. The body signals what it needs. Don’t push what doesn’t feel right.

23 days in, the mileage is getting longer and the kilometers are going by faster. I am definitely feeling the fatigue. Monica jokes on our daily FaceTime calls, “I wonder why?!” But I’m energized by what’s ahead. Ted joins me on June 1 as I leave Pamplona. Christina will pick him up at the Bilbao airport and drop him in for the assault of the Pyrenees. First day we finish in Roncesvalles, then over the top into France to start the Via Tolosana—the next big chapter across France. On June 5, Christina will extract him and get him to Toulouse for vacation with his wife, Karen.

Then on June 20, my good friends Peter and Lauran will join, along with Monica, in Arles for a few days. They're deciding on a base camp and I’m looking forward to their company. They'll likely walk a day or two on the Camino too.

Today’s Camino started quietly, with ribbons of clouds and the warmest temps yet—already in the 60s early on. Rain was forecast for the afternoon, but I beat it.

Jax and I passed the walled city of Viana about 12 km out. Viana was a frontier town and was established in 1219 by King Sanch VII of Navarre to defend the border with Castile. The Camino marked left going up to the city, but Google Maps showed a more direct right-hand route, saving a few kilometers. I’d seen Viana before with Amy three years ago, so we went right.

After a quick coffee and water refill, we began a 10 km climb. At the top was a lovely memorial for a pilgrim who had passed. There, I met three friends who had all met on the Camino and were now traveling together. We talked about what brought each of us here.

A little further down, I met Veronica from New Zealand resting in the shade. She wasn’t feeling great, so I stopped to check on her. Where else can you connect with a total stranger in the wilderness so easily?

Shortly after, a group of 30+ horseback riders came down the trail. I scrambled up a rock with Jax and held his collar. He stayed calm. As we moved on, I said, “free,” and Jax took off ahead—only to later discover he enjoys eating road apples. Ugh.

We arrived in Los Arcos around 24 km in—my ideal lunch stop. It’s a vibrant walled medieval town with a plaza, the 12th century Church of Santa Maria, shops, and cafes. The city has roman tombs at the entrance indicating its ancient roots and was the site of historical events such as the battles during the Reconquista and Napoleonic Wars. I saw a woman leaving with a plate of fettuccine with four cheeses and ordered the same—plus a Coke and two toothpicks of anchovies, peppers, and olives. Carbs, caffeine, and electrolytes. Perfect nutrition. Jax cleaned up the leftovers.

After leaving town, I lost the Camino again and spent most of the day walking along the A12 highway access road. With the sun beating down and asphalt radiating heat, it felt like the Badwater 135 Ultramarathon. Christina came to pick up Jax before it got too hot.

Ayegui sits in a natural funnel between two mountains. As I approached, I noticed a fortress high on the left—Montejurra, a significant local landmark. At its base is the Monastery of Irache, dating back to the 8th century. It was once a Benedictine monastery, a university, and a pilgrim hospital. Today, it’s famous for its wine fountain—Fuente del Vino—where pilgrims can sip red wine for free, a symbol of Camino hospitality. I passed!

I arrived feeling in control but very glad to be done for the day. One more solo day, then the party starts.

Thanks for the support.
Cheers,
David