Day 25 - June 1st: Reinforcements
Pamplona to Roncesvalle: 30.33 mile / 625 total
Even though I’m feeling washed out, after back-to-back 30-mile days in mid-90s heat, I am super happy with the conclusion of the third chapter in this adventure. Chapter 1: the launch and running through cold rainy days. Chapter 2: another failed mission due to a stress fracture? Chapter 3: there is life on the hot Spanish plains. And now we begin Chapter 4 with Ted’s arrival. Even with a crappy night’s sleep, I woke up this morning feeling optimistic as I knew today would be different when Ted arrived. I headed east with Jax while Christina went west to Bilbao to pick up Ted on his direct flight from Newark. It was the maiden voyage of that route and he was on it by chance. Christina grabbed Ted as he came out and with his backpack in tow, they came straight to meet Jax and me in Zubiri. Ted will be with me for five days and today will be up to Roncesvalle, the gateway to the Pyrenees and into Spanish Basque country. Tomorrow we will tackle the Pyrenees and cross into the French Basque country. Then into France and over to the Via Tolosana which will lead across France to Arles. I am energized to have a partner out here but will also be extremely restrained so that my adrenaline doesn’t push me harder than the low simmer I have been operating at for the last 25 days and set me back with my shin.
Yesterday, I picked up two key navigating tricks. The first was in the morning after meeting Matthew going my direction, we chatted about getting lost on the trail so often trying to find markings in the reverse direction. He told me he generally avoids getting lost because of an app called Frances Camino. I downloaded it as we walked. And voilà, I can see exactly where I am on the trail. Of course there is an app!
Secondly, as I was orienting towards Pamplona, far in the distance, I saw a mountain range across a massive valley with wind turbines. I thought it might be the Pyrenees—it was so far and days away. Head down, and 15 km later I was on that summit. While our mind sees things as impossibly far, they in fact are closer and easier than we think. Calibrating these sights with distance and time in our minds makes them less intimidating, more doable. Just move forward one step at a time—it’s all our playground.
No one is leaving without me!
Jax and I left the ancient city of Pamplona which was founded by the Romans in 75 B.C. his morning to quiet streets as the city was alive with Saturday night party hours until late. We had the old town and Cathedral to ourselves and then followed the Arga River as it gently snaked away from Pamplona to its source in the Pyrenees.
A positive with the weather was that temps were in the high 70s with cloud cover versus the mid-90s we had been slogging through the last few days. Further outside the city, the trail became a wonderful single track that was heavily canopied, continuing to follow the river. Magical for Jax, who would dart to the water and hydrate, then join me back on the trail. I arrived in Zubiri at the exact time as Christina and Ted. Big hugs and smiles as we went into an old tavern to grab lunch.
With Ted and Jax leading the way, we continued our climb to Roncesvalle along the ancient trail. The canopy was so tight that after having my hat knocked off a few times I realized my new sunglasses were lost to the trail. Good thing I brought three pairs!
The pilgrims coming at us were now full of smiles and fresh as daisies—they had only just started their journey. We met Joyce and Philip from China who were beaming with the adventure ahead. They had watched the movie “The Way” and were living out their dream.
Jax and Philip really got along
We arrived at our hotel in the town before Roncesvalle but decided to continue on to the church a few kilometers further so that tomorrow wouldn’t be 52 km but a more manageable 48. That and the weather is changing with forecasted rain and cooler temps. In the Pyrenees this could lead to a challenging day tomorrow, especailly if there is lighting in the mix. Roncesvalles is famous for the battle in 778 AD where Charlemagne’s rear guard was ambushed by the Basques.
For now, the day is done with no setbacks. A ton of new energy and we introduce Ted to the menu del día before turning in for the night.
Thanks for your support. Cheers, David.
