Day 41 - June 18th: Smooth Sailing

Barjols to Peyrolles-en-Provence: 26.2 miles / 1,094 total

Yesterday’s epic effort wrapped with a dream finish in Barjols. Tucked between limestone cliffs and overlooking a deep gorge, it was spectacular. Our old hotel faced the town square and opened out back to a view across the gorge from a big double window in our room. As I came in from the hills, Christina and Jax were there in the square along with the locals lounging at cafés. It was a glorious end to a big day and I was very happy.

My weight had hit a low of 158 pounds, down from 170. After a big lunch, I gained back 7 pounds—which also meant I was dehydrated. Still, it was a win. We had dinner on the plaza at 7:45 p.m. with Jax at our feet. The sun dipped low, lighting up the multi-colored facades like a painting. We had beer, baked ravioli, salad, and ice cream before heading upstairs. I was out as soon as I closed my eyes.

With the big day behind me, the plan is to knock out a marathon distance each day through Friday, ending in our Airbnb in Arles. Laura and Peter are meeting us somewhere on the Via Aurelia—the ancient Roman road that connects Italy to Arles. Friday’s stage will mark the final segment of that camino, and I plan to bring Jax out with me again.

Mornings have been cool even with the heat later in the day. I left Barjols and was immediately climbing hairpins carved into the limestone cliffs. It was a gut-check after yesterday, and I was a little nervous about how I’d hold up. But—astonishingly—no issues. The system was working. That said, the present offers no guarantees. Every minute out here demands attention.

At the top, I turned onto a fire road that gave me a bird’s-eye view of Barjols, almost cratered into the limestone basin, with peaks visible on all sides. The trail rolled along the ridge for a few kilometers, a dream path—no overgrowth, no boulders, no mystery junctions.

After 10 km, I hit the D561—a narrow, shoulderless road I’ve come to know well. I would’ve been happy with just those 10 km of trail, but then: just before the turn onto the D561, I saw the sign—Voie Verte. Jackpot.

The Voie Verte carried me peacefully for 15 km to Rians, a striking hilltop village surrounded by fertile valley lands. Strategically placed between mountain passes, Rians was once a key defensive settlement in Provence. Its elevated layout and valley visibility would’ve been ideal for spotting threats in all directions. I grabbed a sandwich, a Coke, and refilled water at a boulangerie before heading out again.

John—thanks for the calorie advice. After the burger and fries lunch yesterday, I had noticeably more energy at the end of the day. I’m now committed to a daily sit-down meal. Snacks alone just don’t cut it.

The Voie Verte continued for another 6 km before hitting a construction detour. I rerouted to a road tracing a stream that had carved a channel through the mountains over millions of years. At one point, the slopes converged just enough to support a bridge carrying an aqueduct pipe. Moments later, the mountains just stopped—and suddenly, I was in Provence.

Purple lavender fields flanked both sides of the road, rolling me into the village of Jouques, which sits at the confluence of river and ridge. High on the limestone hills behind it, ruins of a church and fortress still cling to the rock. The town itself is beautifully preserved, with stone houses and narrow lanes that hint at its medieval layout. A river cuts through the center, once diverted to power now-silent watermills—some of which are still visible.

My day ended with a marathon-distance arrival in Peyrolles-en-Provence, a larger town with shops and a historic center built along the Durance River. It was once part of a Roman trade network and served as a link between the Alps and the sea. Christina and Jax met me right on time. Like a well-drilled team, we arrived simultaneously and drove to our hotel ten minutes away in the next town.

No setbacks, no stress. It felt like I floated through the day.

One step closer to friends, family, and Arles.

Thanks for the support.

Cheers,

David.