Day 59 - July 8th: Rain

San Stino di Livenza to San Giorgio di Nogaro: 31.2 miles / 1,627 total

Our first day back yesterday ended perfectly—we had time to work on logistics now that the calendar is locked in, Jax ran up and down the canal like a greyhound working off his energy, and our hotel had a restaurant just steps from the room. We sat inside near the bar, though the outdoor seating was tempting. At this point, Jax seems to think he’s one of us. He hopped up onto the bench beside me like a regular dinner guest, sitting across from Christina.

This morning began with severe thunderstorms across the region, forecasted to last all day. I remembered Day 5—nearly two months ago—waking up to similar hard rain in an Airbnb and considering taking the day off. But today, I was looking forward to the change. I stepped outside a little before 7 a.m. and was surprised by the chill—60°F, a solid 20 degrees cooler than what I’ve grown used to. I ducked back into the room for my rain jacket just in case there was hail or wind ahead.

As I ran out of San Stino de Livenza, rain pelting down and traffic pushing waves of water my way, I thought of Bob Becker, who had just started the Badwater 135 at 8 p.m. in temperatures well over 100°F. While he was enduring the heat of Death Valley, I was running through wind and water and honestly… I was in a good place.

I checked on Bob and saw that he’d already made it to Furnace Creek, the first checkpoint, in 4 hours and 20 minutes. Strong start.

The day’s route immediately dropped me onto SS14, which quickly proved itself to be the ugly cousin of the dreaded SS10—tight shoulders, heavy trucks, storm runoff, and nowhere to hide. In weather like this, it’s a game of focus and reflexes: stay alert, count down kilometers, and be ready to dive into a ditch if necessary.

I reached Portogruaro around the 17-kilometer mark and stopped for a macchiato, cream filled croissant and a water refill. Afterwards, the clouds started to lift. The sun poked through. Portogruaro was once a key inland port of the Venetian Republic, It was founded in the 12th century and thrived due to its access to canals leading to Venice as a trade hub for wine, salt, and grain.

A few hours later and another 13k, I heard a honk from behind—Christina and Jax, like clockwork. She pulled over and with a break in the rain, I was able to change out of my soaked socks and shoes. Huge save as my soaked feet were starting to feel blisters forming.

With the stop I did a recalculation on the route to get off SS14 and found a detour that added a few k which was a no brainer for me. I said goodbye to them and entered Latisana another important Venetian town. Latisana served as a fortified outpost near the Tagliamento River, protecting Venice’s eastern frontier. It also saw military action during World War I, when the region became part of the Italian-Austro-Hungarian front line after the Battle of Caporetto.

After exiting Latisana, I made a right to the backroads instead of a left to SS14. The change was immediate with no traffic and I could finally look up. To my left, the Alps loomed—some shrouded in clouds, others still tipped with snow. Absolutely majestic. I passed through Casali del Mol, a small hamlet, and into rows of vineyards until I entered Precenicco. From the front, it looked like any other quiet village. But a path took me behind the houses and revealed something else entirely: boats docked along a canal, bars and restaurants tucked into the banks, little bridges and walking paths. This had clearly been part of the Venetian Republic’s massive inland canal system, once used to move goods and people between the Adriatic and northern trade routes. You’d never know from the street—it felt like discovering a secret.

Backroads gave way to SS14 again at kilometer 41. I pushed through Muzzana del Turgnano, then Zellina, before finally rolling into San Giorgio di Nogaro, where Christina and Jax were waiting at Hotel Vittoria. We checked in on Bob again—he had just reached Stovepipe Wells, Checkpoint #2, in 10 hours and 47 minutes. Lisa sent word that he was feeling great.

I made a fast day out of the 50 kilometers—done in under 9 hours, including lunch, two snack stops, and gear changes. The cooler temps, even with the rain, were a gift. Christina surprised me as I was working on my entry by showing up at the room with my favorite tap beer: Guinness, served at our hotel bar.

Going to be a good night.

Thanks for following along and for all your support.

Cheers,

Davidl