June 21st - 2nd Day Off
Monica found an Airbnb for the five of us on the outskirts of Arles in a 200-year-old stone house. I ran straight to the house from Fontvieille while Christina and Monica picked up Laura and Peter from a café—where they both claimed they’d just had the best cappuccino of their lives. We all met at the house in great spirits, ready to celebrate our first night together.
We parked just outside the old city and walked through the ancient stone walls to reach the restaurant. Arles was pulsing with energy in a way I hadn’t experienced in any other city so far. Beer halls packed with locals and tourists alike, music in the squares, the city alive. And at the center of it all, towering above the town: the Arènes d’Arles, a Roman amphitheater built in the 1st century AD. Originally designed to host gladiator games for up to 20,000 spectators, it’s astonishing how intact the structure remains—no CAD software, no heavy machinery, just stone, sweat, and genius. Today it still hosts bullfights, concerts, and plays—2,000 years after it was built.
Dinner at Le Cliquet, a family-run restaurant, exceeded all expectations. Laura and Monica raved about the artichoke carpaccio, while Peter and I agreed the lamb was the best either of us had ever eaten—crispy outside, soft inside, just the right fat content. Local reds and whites paired perfectly, and we finished with rich chocolate mousse that no one regretted.
Walking back through Arles after dinner helped ease the indulgence. The city, still glowing from the heat of the day, hummed with people just beginning to enjoy the night. Passing the coliseum again, with its floodlit arches and timeless presence, felt like a send-off from France itself.
Today was everything an off day should be. We hung by the pool, knocked out laundry, took turns on grocery runs, and shared more food and drink. Plans for tomorrow are set: I’ll run from the house into Arles solo, where Laura and Peter will meet me to walk the first steps of the Via Tolasano, also known as The Arles Way, to Saint-Gilles (17 km). They’ll head back after that and I’ll finish the final 15 km alone. This segment will complete the full loop from Grasse to Arles—and Monday, Christina and I will pick up the trail eastward toward Monaco and Italy.
The France chapter is drawing to a close, and it’s been an incredible final act. Jax has been welcomed everywhere—hotels, restaurants, shops—more than in any other country I’ve traveled. Lodging has been manageable, the food consistently good, and the countryside a patchwork of farms, vineyards, forests, and living history. We’ll miss France—and we’re excited to meet what lies ahead.
Richard—thanks for the note. Lunch is now a primary trail goal. On Friday I burned around 3,500 calories, and with a base rate near 1,800, that’s 5,300 I need just to break even. Without a solid lunch, it’s nearly impossible to catch up by snacking. It takes real effort to stop, eat, and digest mid-run, especially in this heat.
Temperatures are soaring into the high 90s this week. Laura and Peter were both surprised how hard it was to just walk up the mountain in that heat—both felt exhilarated about being introduced into the most taxing situation and feeling great later than evening. I wouldn’t be surprised if this experience leads to more of it in their future.
Bob—thanks for the kind message, and I’m excited for your 80th birthday challenge: toeing the line at Badwater 135 Ultramarathon in a few weeks. More on that to come…
Alastair—I am sure you will be pleased that my Garmin is set to metric, I’ve joined team Europe on this count.
Heading out to dinner and libations now with the crew.
Thanks again for all the support.
Cheers,
David
