Day 5 - May 12th: The Vikings
O Porriño to Caldas de Reis: 28.62 Miles
Christina found us a solid spot after a long fourth day. The time zone shift to Spain added an extra hour to the day, so by the time I hit the door at 5:45pm, there wasn’t much day left. The place was an Airbnb dungeon with a single window, but it had a huge shower – perfect for giving Jax his first real bath after four days of mud and grime. It also had a kitchen and plenty of space, so we’ll likely lean into more Airbnb stays if we can find pet-friendly ones in good locations. The biggest win? I could finish my run right at the doorstep and head out the same way the next morning. That kind of efficiency is our goal.
Christina also came up with a clutch logistics move – using the iPhone “Find My” feature to track each other’s location in real-time. That should save us a ton of stress after yesterday’s communication breakdown. Brilliant.
Dinner was a standout. We found a local Italian spot, Casa de Mili, and I had one of the best Italian meals I can remember. Arugula, parmigiana, and balsamic salad with bruschetta to start, followed by a penne arrabbiata that was superb.. Now that we’re in Spain, I’ve also got my favorite Spanish beers, Estrella and 1906 Reserva, on tap. I wrapped it up with homemade gelato and a crunchy pastry – a strong finish to a long day. If I or anyone ever comes through O Porrinho again, this place is a must.
Woke up to the sound of wind and rain hammering the walls, and with the temps in the low 40s, I had serious second thoughts. But 30 minutes later, after a strong cup of coffee and a quick breakfast of yogurt and granola, we were on the move.
I figured the weather would thin out the trail today, but I was dead wrong. Pilgrims in tarps and rain gear, sloshing through mud and the elements but all smiling.
Early on, I met Darren, who shared his story about losing his son, a tragedy that led him to the Camino. His spirit was a ray of light in our storm.
Later, just outside Pontevedra, I passed a couple – the guy yelled, “We love the dog!” A few minutes later, they ran up behind me and asked for a photo. Kasper – “not with a C, too round. The K is all jagged and rough, like me” – and Jen, pronounced “yen”, both from Denmark. Kasper looked like a Viking straight out of central casting – squat, long blond beard, piercing blue eyes, and Jen, tall and strong, with kind eyes. They shared their story on camera for which I’m grateful. Teaser: Jen was homeless living on the street with a dog…P.S. They’ll probably get married one day and hope to get an invite to that Viking wedding which will be in the woods.
Physically, we are good except for some blisters and rashes, especially after all the rain. The mental grind of days three and four has passed, but the physical danger zone is still ahead – that 7-10 day window where bodies tend to break down. Jax is holding up, still in the game, his paws holding out for now. No limp, so we’re pressing on.
Thanks for following along and for the support.
Cheers,
David
