Day 6 - May 13th: It Gets Real

Caldas da Reis to Santiago de Compostela: 31.33 miles / total 155 miles

We ended the day at the Balneario Acuna Hotel and Spa, right at the entrance to Caldas de Reis. The "spa" label was clearly a marketing play for the tourist buses, but for us, the setup worked perfectly. We had a room separate from the main building – think single-level motel with a hose fixture. That hose came in clutch because Jax had rolled in something foul off the trail, and he reeked. Jax has been so tired that he has not eaten as much food as he needs. Christina solved the problem by taking the rest of the jug of yogurt we didn’t finish in the morning and adding to his food and voila, he ate 4 bowls!

I was also thrilled to here from Kaspar via email later that night. He sent me the picture he took in the pouring rain of Jax and I. Today, I kept thinking about he and Janne - their hardships, strength and love, incredibly inspiring.

Santiago de Compostela marks the end of phase one of this cross-Europe run. My plan called for seven days. I made it in six. From here, I turn east – and keep going for a long, long time.

It started out wet again, but the rain let up by 10 AM and gave way to clouds. The trail is getting crowded now as we close in on Santiago. I spent time with a group of guys from Ireland doing an annual Camino trip. It reminded me of the Ultra Gang back home – same spirit, different speed. 

I also caught up with Ilse from Amsterdam – probably the fastest walker on the trail. She’s on her second Camino, solo again. We talked about what brings her back: the stories she hears, the animals she sees, the little things like hot showers after long, wet days. She stays mostly in albergues, soaking up the shared energy of the trail. I tried to capture a quick video of our chat but botched it – snapped a photo instead. Sorry, Ilse. Still, a bright moment in my day.

Then things went sideways.

On a slick downhill stretch, I felt something tighten in my left shin. Same kind of pain I had in my right shin back on day six during my run across America. A bad omen. At first, I tried changing my gait to see if I could manage it. No good. I had to walk. It didn’t stop me, but it slowed me way down. I compensated with my right leg and got into a kind of survival rhythm. Not fun, but I made it. Dead man’s march to the hotel. Now it’s rest, ice, elevation, compression, anti-inflammatories. Hoping one night of recovery makes the difference.

Jax is feeling it too. He’s moving slower, more gingerly it seems. But the second I say "free," he snaps to life, darting off to sniff out new smells and greet pilgrims. He’s good for now but this is the point Christina and I need to make a final decision on his proceeding. If not, she takes him back to Monica in Porto. Decision tonight…

That’s all for today. Thanks for your support..

Cheers,
David