Day 7 - May 14th: The Sun Rises

Santiago de Compostela to Boente: 29 miles / 184 total

I was really worried. Not sure how I finished the longest day of the journey so far – just over 50 km – but Jax and I got it done, right to the doorstep of our hotel in Santiago. As I approached the city, I realized I didn’t need to follow the path into the Basilica. I’m not here to complete the Camino. I’m here to cross Europe. So I cut through the city, trimmed a few kilometers, and got off my feet sooner – my shin needed it.

Back in the room, I threw everything I had at recovery. Ice, compression, elevation, anti-inflammatories, and a message to Coach Lisa to talk through the plan. We agreed: full walk the next day, compression socks with ice if needed, and keep things focused on one day at a time. Sleep was my priority – the result of one night’s rest always surprises me.

We were lucky enough to land a dinner at A Noiesa, my favorite restaurant in Santiago. I’ve been there twice before – last time with the Ultra Gang. We practically got kicked out for overstaying our table. I always wonder if the memory of a great meal is the food or just the setting. This time, it was the food. Heirloom tomatoes with raw onions and vinaigrette, fried eggplant with honey, pot roast for Christina, a beef fillet for me, all paired with a bottle of Emilio Moro from Ribera del Duero. Capped it with a Santiago tart made of almonds and chocolate gelato. Came back to the hotel full and with a buzz. I went to bed hopeful.

Today was the go/no-go for Jax. The original plan was to reassess after a week. Between the logistics of finding pet-friendly hotels and how his body would hold up, we had our concerns. But after talking it over, Christina and I both agreed – Jax is a full go for the rest of the trip. Game on!

The rain finally let up. 42° and dry at the start. My shin was sore but not worse. That was a good sign. I always say if things aren’t getting worse, they’re getting better. My focus today boiled down to one word: patience. I’d walk slow. Around 5 km/h. No rush. Meals and breaks included in the day’s clock. Compared to the normal 6 to 7 km/h, I’d have to really relax through this slow day.

If things hold, I’ll be on the Camino Francés for the next 2 weeks, heading east across Spain. I ran this route before with Amy, supported by Christina. Took us 15.5 days then. This time I’m going the other way. The signs all face away from me, so I’ll need to stay sharp to avoid wrong turns. And I won’t be running up to pilgrims so no chats and sadly, maybe no more interviews.

Out of the city, back onto the cobblestones, the trail quieted. Birdsong, mist, the smell of wet greenery. Then chanting. A group of 20 pilgrims in two-by-two rows came toward me, led by a young pastor with rosary beads. They were praying aloud, many holding beads of their own. A reminder that for many, this is a sacred pilgrimage that’s existed for centuries.

Later, I met Siobhan. She looked emotional so I stopped and asked if she was okay. She told me about her battle with depression four years ago, and how walking the Camino solo had been her goal – and she was almost there. She took a picture of me and Jax for her photo journal, then shared her story. I was really touched.

Since I wasn’t in a rush, I stopped twice along the Camino to eat. For lunch I had an omelet with chorizo and cheese, some bread, and a Coke. Amazing how good food tastes when you’re actually hungry. Jax curled up next to me and started eating grass.

My theory: once you’re past a certain age, something always hurts. And the only time it stops hurting is when something else starts hurting worse. I’m hoping by tomorrow my vocal cords are what hurt – from saying “Ola,” “Buenos días,” and “Buen Camino”

Jax and I made it to our lodging. Safe, steady, and maybe a little stronger. A good sign for tomorrow.

Thanks for the support.

Cheers,

David