Day 8 - May 15th: Against Traffic
Boento to Portomarin: 28.7 miles / 213 total.
Jax and I wrapped up Day 7 in better shape than expected. Not perfect, but not sidelined. My shin held up as long as I stuck to walking. I tested a short jog at the end and felt that stabbing pain under the surface, so I backed off. I’m hopeful another day of walking will move me out of the danger zone. Jax has a couple of blisters on his back paws that looked a little better overnight. Christina’s heading to a pharmacy today to pick up some liquid skin or a topical to help speed up the healing.
She also found us a place to stay – Hotel Rural Rectoral de Boente, a converted rectory right on the Camino. Thomas, the owner, explained it used to house priests until the church downsized the parish. He bought it and renovated it himself. The stone structure dates back at least 200 years and walking through the main hall, the smell of incense hits you immediately.
Dinner was another win. Thomas recommended Casa Nene in nearby Arzúa. It was packed, but I spotted two barstools and asked if we could eat there. Not typical, but the guy behind the bar – who turned out to be the owner, Nacho – said sure. Meal started with anchovies on what looked like a pad of butter with toasted bread. Christina, who thought I’d ordered artichoke because it started with an “a”, took a bite, loved it, and is now team anchovy. Next up: burrata with tomato and onion, then Tina’s octopus and my Iberico ham, all paired with a bottle of Aalto from Ribera del Duero. Nacho and his crew of three ran the whole place – amazing food, good people, would go back in a second if I’m every through that area.
This morning, breakfast in the main hall was shared with a group of pilgrims from England. We swapped Camino stories over coffee (me) and tea (them). There’s something about the Camino that breaks down barriers quickly.
The plan today was simple: stay under the pain threshold and move forward. Weather was ideal – 46°, foggy, and overcast. But I felt the weight of the miles. First time the energy wasn’t there. That extra spark of curiosity and creativity felt dulled.
Running north on the Portuguese Camino, I didn’t see any dogs. On the French Camino, they’re everywhere – mostly leashed, from poodles to big labs. I even saw a couple being carried in baby slings strapped to their owners’ chests.
With fewer people to talk to – I’m going against traffic – the rhythm of the day is more solitary. No natural breaks. Jax is feeling it too. His energy was lower, and I noticed him briefly favoring a paw a few times. At mile 18, I called Christina and had her pick him up. A half-day break should help. He’s also not eating in the morning – too excited to miss the trail. At night, he doesn’t quite make up for it, so I’ve been bringing him fresh meat from the breakfast buffet.
I am doing a good job on calories so far. I learned in my US crossing that this was the toughest challenge over the long haul. Nothing seems to be happening and then 30 days later pounds acoming off at an uncontrollable pace. Key is to keep weight up as much as possible. On the camino this will be easier because there are excellent options what seems every 5k or so. My favorite lunch item now is french fries with an omellete with chorizo and cheese.
That’s all for today. Thanks for following along.
Cheers,
David
