Day 51 - June 29th:
Francavilla Bisio to Fumo: 33.7 miles / 1,385 total
Christina found us a place in the village of Gavi, about 13 kilometers from where I wrapped up today’s run at 5:15 p.m. We checked into the hotel by 6, and were out for dinner at 8—later than ideal, but worth it. Gavi is a striking town set beneath a commanding fortress that looms over its red-roofed houses. The Forte di Gavi, built originally by the Ligurians and expanded by the Genoese in the 16th century, was a key defensive post controlling the Alpine passes between Genoa and the Po Valley.
The town was closed off earlier in the day for a market, and by night it was hosting a full-on festival—live music, street food, bars pouring drinks. Families, kids, teenagers, old-timers—everyone was out. Scenes like these remind me that these communities are not just surviving, but thriving. It’s uplifting to witness and be a part of.
Our hotel, La Castellana, served breakfast at 8 a.m., too late to beat the heat, so I skipped it and packed extra fluids and calories. Christina dropped me back at yesterday’s endpoint by 5:40 a.m., and I headed out on a warm, quiet country road under a rising sun. First time I’ve caught the sunrise in a while. It felt good.
I rolled through Pasturana, a small village known for its DOCG Dolcetto di Ovada wine, and then on to Novi Ligure, a town with an unexpectedly sporty past: it was once known as the “city of champions” for producing elite cyclists like Costante Girardengo, one of the most legendary Italian cyclists of the early 20th century, and Fausto Coppi, a national hero. Novi even hosted stages of the Giro d’Italia. I even ran by the Museo dei Campionissimi, which honors Girardengo and Coppi and other cycling greats.
At 12 km, just when I was getting worried about finding food, I reached Villalvernia, where Il Mulino Café was a godsend: coffee, salami on focaccia, and a chocolate croissant. Doug—I have definitley mastered eating while running!
Leaving Villalvernia, I found myself on a shoulderless, flat farm road, cornfields on both sides. I am listenening to The Omnivore’s Dilemma (thanks, Gabe), right on the chapter about corn’s stranglehold on modern agriculture. Made me wonder if it is the same in Europe as I ran through fields of it under a brutal sun. By 10 a.m., it was already 93°F, heading toward 104.
I ground out kilometers through the heat and landed in Tortona around 10:30 a.m. at 26 km. Tortona surprised me. The old town was alive—music playing in the first piazza I hit, locals sipping espresso and checking out market stalls under the clock tower. Then another square, more live music. Then another. This wasn’t just a town awake—it was teeming with life! All the positive community energy gave me a huge energy boost.
Historically, Tortona dates back to Roman times as Dertona, a strategic military outpost. It later became a Lombard duchy, then a key Ghibelline stronghold during the medieval struggles for Northern Italy. Now it seems just as passionate about swing bands as it once was about battle formations.
I pressed on to Pontecurone at 35 km where I found a café for a panini and Coke. Most villages today had public water fountains—lifesavers in this heat. By the time I reached Voghera, the town was under full siesta mode. Makes sense—no one wants be out in this kind of heat.
As I ran through Voghera’s old town, I caught a whiff of incense and a blast of cool air from an open door. I instinctively stopped, backpedaled, and peeked inside: a baptism was taking place. Another boost of energy to keep me going.
Christina scouted our only lodging option in Fumo, and I decided to push on to it—54 km total. I thought about stopping at 50 but when she said they serve breakfast at 6:30 a.m., I figured it was smarter to finish the job today and start early from the hotel tomorrow. That way she wouldn’t have to pick me up and then shuttle me back to start again.
After two nights of poor sleep, I’m hoping tonight I finally crash hard. No injuries, weight is steady, and optimism intact—the arrow is pointing up for us.
I also knocked out The Obstacle Is the Way by Ryan Holiday (thanks, Jim) which I really enjoyed if anyone is looking for a read. If you have any audiobook recs, drop them in the comments—I’ve got plenty of time on the road!
Thanks for following along and your support.
Cheers,
David.
