Day 52 - June 30th: Surprises
Fumo to Piacenza: 29.5 miles / 1,414 total
Last night’s dinner in Fumo at La Pluma Chophouse lived up to the hype. With a 4.9 rating on Google, dog-friendly status, and just 2 km from our hotel, it was a lock. We arrived at 6:59 p.m. to find the place empty, but a shaded seating area outside gave us a place to hang until the doors opened at 7:15. The restaurant is housed in a renovated house with a tower—we sat beneath a circular stone roof with exposed beams, and the creativity of the space immediately impressed as different lights hung from ropes and illuminated the room beautifully.
We met Samuel, one of the owners, who served us with the staff. Christina ordered the Brazilian cut picanha, and I went with the filet mignon—both perfectly cooked, served with chimichurri, new potatoes in butter, and sweet-sour vegetables. Everything was excellent. Even Jax got in on the action with leftover meat back at the hotel.
This morning’s 6:30 a.m. breakfast allowed me to sneak out early and hit the road before 7. The route from Fumo to Piacenza followed SS10, a straight, busy road with a narrow shoulder, but it passed through eight villages that helped break up the day—and offered hydration and food in what was forecasted to be another scorcher.
Doug, re: your bathroom question—Rule #1: always carry wet wipes. Rule #2: always carry extra. While Italian towns don’t have many public restrooms, cafés and restaurants are generally welcoming. That said, 90% of the time, I’m between towns—and that means nature’s restroom.
The first kilometers flew by in the early cool, passing through:
Santa Giuletta – a small hill town with winemaking roots dating back to the Roman era.
Manza – quiet and rural.
Broni – where I stopped for coffee and a pastry.
Two big mainstays in Italian culture are coffee and lottery tickets. A “coffee” is a quick espresso, served with sparkling water. Yet people linger over it for ages. Also—l’m amazed how many people play with th lottery tickets, mostly the scratch offs. Every Tobacco store seems busy with folks trying their luck.
Next up was Stradella, shaded for several kilometers by rows trees that made me think of Napolean and his poplar trees. Stradella is also known as the birthplace of the accordion, and it still celebrates this with a local museum (Museo della Fisarmonica).
By 10 a.m., it was 90°F. I stuck to the shade wherever I could, especially along the right side of the street through each town.
At 26 km, I reached Castel San Giovanni, and something I’d been watching for finally lined up: a barbershop with no wait. The rules are simple—must be on the road I’m running, and no line. After a dozen or so fails over the last few days, Castello Turkish Barbershop fit the bill.
A young guy started cutting my hair but had to leave midway for a meeting. No problem. The owner, Cuma (pronounced Chuma), took over. He’s a Kurdish immigrant from Turkey, in Italy now for a year. We chatted in English about Turkey, Erdogan (he’s not a fan), and the cost of living. He surprised me by saying Italy is actually cheaper than Turkey right now. I told him about the run ending in Istanbul, and not only did he give me a great haircut and beard trim—he gave me his number and said he’ll call his friends to help when we reach Turkey. Huge thanks, Cuma!!
Back on the road, the heat was in full blast-furnace mode as I passed through:
Sarmato – home to a medieval castle and once a stronghold of the Malaspina family, influential rulers during the Lombard and early Renaissance periods.
San Nicolò a Trebbia – a modern suburb of Piacenza along the Trebbia River. The Trebbia itself was the site of a major Hannibal victory in 218 BC during the Second Punic War—a battle that solidified his legendary march into Italy.
Each town had shops where I could grab cold water, Coke, or iced tea, but even so, I was dehydrated by the time I reached the edge of Piacenza.
Lesson of the day: even a “boring” route can surprise you.
Christina and Jax were waiting for me at our hotel, the sleek Grande Albergo Roma, located in Piacenza’s old town. Recovery mode activated—and a solid dinner ahead.
Piacenza Quick Facts
Founded as a Roman colony in 218 BC, Piacenza has always been a strategic crossroads—militarily, economically, and culturally. It’s the western anchor of the Via Emilia and was a key supply base during the Punic Wars.
Thanks again for following and for the support.
Cheers,
David
